Popular questions from our customers
Recommendations prior to installation
- The sheets should be delivered to a roofed and fully clad site at least 48 hours prior to installation and stored within the building close to where they are to be fixed in order to acclimatise.
- It is preferable to lie them flat in a low traffic area for their safety with the top sheet placed upside down to keep the top sheet clean.
What framing is required?
- Studs at no more than 450mm centres.
- Where sheets join between studs, noggins should be placed no more than 600mm apar
- Where dado is used, a continuous row of nogging needs to be provided to allow the fixing of the top of the dado, bottom of the qyprock and the chair rail
- Ceiling battens must not be greater than 450mm centres
How do I fix VJ sheets to the framing?
- Use a flexible stud or construction adhesive, and apply to all framing timbers in either a continuous bead or in “acorns” sized dollops (also prevents vibration in the walls); as a guide, approximately 1/2 tube of adhesive is used per 2.7m sheet.
- Use 32mm finishing nails or screws that won’t rust, and fix to the studs at 600mm intervals and 300mm across the top and bottom of the sheet
- Leave a gap approx.0.5mm between sheets to allow for structural movement and never “hammer” one sheet into the other. A 1mm gap per sheet should be left at all internal corners to allow for expansion
- Leave a gap of approx. 10mm at the top and bottom of each sheet to prevent wicking of water up the sheet, and allow for structural movement
- If fixing VJ sheeting over existing wall cladding, it is important to nail or screw the sheets through the cladding into the underlying framework and apply a zigzag bead of adhesive to the back of the sheet you are fixing
Can MR VJ sheets be used in wet areas such as bathrooms, laundries, on verandah walls under a wide roof etc?
- All brands of VJ sheets that are sold as MR or UMR have to meet the requirements of the Australian test protocol V313. The material may absorb moisture in wet area applications but this can be prevented by the following:
- Ensuring that you leave a 10mm gap between the floor and the bottom of each sheet to prevent wicking.
- Painting the top and bottom edges, any vertical cuts, and the back of the sheet with an acrylic latex paint before installation
- Painting the face of the sheets prior to using the area for the first time.
- Generally, it is also good practice to:
- Paint the back of ceiling sheets with acrylic sealer before installation
- Paint the back of sheets on the inside of external walls or provide sarking where dampness may encroach.
- Seal the face of the sheets as soon as possible after installation
- Use a cement-based wallboard to line walls that are to be tiled
Is 9mm VJ sheeting suitable for ceilings?
- Yes, provided battens are no more than 450mm apart.
- Screwing is recommended to allow minor adjustments to be made to sheet levels.
Screwing is recommended to allow minor adjustments to be made to sheet levels
It is difficult to achieve a good result when butt-joining ceiling sheets because, with expansion and contraction over time, the join will inevitably crack.
We recommend 3 options:
- Plan to join the sheets in a position that can be covered with a timber cover strip; e.g.: the centre-line of the room, in line with an adjoining wall, at the leading end of the hallway, etc
- Design a pattern of cover strips (e.g.: a square) that can be made to look like a feature – then join sheets under these strips
- Use gyprock – looks great with a feature
What sort of paint should be used?
An acrylic sealer-undercoat should be applied as the base coat if purchasing or using unprimed sheets
Do I need to prime the backs of the sheets?
- Only if the sheets are likely to be exposed to moisture, e.g.
- sheets on the inside of external walls where no sarking is provided
- all sheets being used in bathrooms, laundries etc
- ceiling sheets
Where do I start installation?
- If sheeting both ceilings and walls, it is best to fix the ceiling sheets first. This will then set the positions of the end walls – it looks best if the ceiling grooves line up with the wall grooves
- If sheeting walls it is normal to start in a corner and work around the room. However, sometimes it may be more economical to start with a part sheet
Notes on installation
- It is critical to ensure that the first wall sheet on each wall is perpendicular – otherwise the vertical grooves will not be parallel to windows and doorways. The edge in the corner may need to be cut or planed to allow this.
- Always leave a gap of approx. 10mm between the floor and the bottom of the sheet.
- Do not put a nail or screw very close to the edge of the sheet as it may split
- ALWAYS use a suitable dust/face mask and safety goggles when cutting sheets and make sure all dust is vacuumed up daily.